Showing posts with label MGM Grand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MGM Grand. Show all posts

Friday, 4 April 2008

Vegas with E ( originally a 'trip report' written for Trip Advisor's Vegas Forum)

To see the original thread with all the fun Vegas forum responses and replies.....click here

THE TRIP: Las Vegas Oct 13th - 19th 2007 * Hotel :The Signature @ MGM
THE TRAVELLERS :

Me : ( 50 and abit - still think I am 30 ) rash gambler, extrovert, travel junkie. Last time in the States : New York in June.

E : ( 50 and a bit more) - one of my oldest and closest friends -no, not gay or an ex - but that rare thing, a straight platonic male friend , considered gambler, introvert, not a big traveller ( prefers sitting at home with a cup of tea) . Last time in the States : 25 years ago - Las Vegas.
We are about as alike as chalk and cheese ...


BACKGROUND:
I had been to Vegas for the first time on a whim in 2005 with another friend, but as E needs to consider everything very carefully, 6 weeks notice had not been enough for him..


As he has regretted it ever since and I had loved it ,earlier this year we planned our trip.


This was not as easy as it sounds as a) I had to persuade him that his guide books from 1982 were a little out of date and b) we were not going to do it 'on the cheap' .
'We could always go seperately' he said as I enthused about the Bellagio ....'and then meet up on the Strip'.


He hasn't seen The Strip for a quarter of a century.


Anyway, after me threatening to not go with him at all, we settle on The Signature as I am curious to see if it lives up to Trip Advisor's no.1 spot.


FLIGHT : E is a nervy air traveller. 'Well this is alright' he said as we settled into our Virgin economy seats, 'it's much better than before ..
' Remind me , when was before? I reply ...' 25 years ago on Laker ...'
We fill in our customs & immigration forms ...I take a sneaky peak over his shoulder to see him writing at length.
Q: Are you bringing in any food in your case ...
A : 2 apples,1 banana, 1 orange, 2 packets of oatcakes.....
As I didn't want to spend 4 hours at McCarran while E explained why he had fruit in his case I had to persuade him to bin it on arrival. ...
.......and who was the person who was stopped? Me


ARRIVAL : Much to my surprise I still had the green 'visa waiver form' clipped in my passport from my trip to NY in June.

The immigration officer was not impressed. "According to this ma'am, you haven't left the States since June". 'Well sir', I say ( mindful that US Immigration is a force to be reckoned with ) I have just come in on an international flight from the UK so I must have done'.

Further interogation -during which I blame Richard Branson ..(ok, his airline ... Virgin check in should have taken it off me in NY ) and then get abit girlie and pathetic as visions of being shoved on the next flight home flash before my eyes.
'Well ma'am - we should by all rights interrogate you ( gulp!) but on this occasion I'll let you through'. ( Phew! ) Armed with a form to fill in and a warning, he lets me through. God knows what's now on my computer file ....
and so ...To The SIGNATURE!


Grab a taxi and off we go. It is a gloriously hot afternoon and Vegas looks like a wonderfully inviting candy coloured play ground, sparkling in the sun. E looks abit gobsmacked.
Short trip to The Signature - we know we are in Tower 2 as I had emailed ahead to enquire. I had also cheekily asked for Strip facing rooms and balconies.

Check in and get our room keys, and E asks where the lifts are. Reception politely say pardon ? E repeats the question.....and my internal translator kicks in. I stage whisper behind E 'it's elevator' ....having sorted that one out, I remind him that we are in America now..so when in Vegas! .....(what was that quote about 2 nations divided by a common language ?....)


THE ROOMS :
Head up in the lift ( sorry elevator) to the 26th Floor. Discover we have been given 2 'junior suites' side by side with balconies ...and facing The Strip! ...Rush to the balcony ...we can see The Eiffel Tower and a lot of building work..but hey ...it's Vegas ! the suites are enormous and I am happy ....it's always a good start when you like your hotel ...AND your room.
Settling in....

So we've checked in to our rooms.
First thing I do is put the big plasma tv on . Flip channels and find Donald Trump on Larry King Live....now I know I really am in America!
Ring up E who answers the phone with a 'who knows I'm here' tone of voice .......
'It's Donald Trump live on the telly !' I yell.
Now he knows I really am jetlag crazy.

I fling my stuff randomly about, have a quick shower and get ready to hit The Strip. Bang on E's door ...he's carefully arranged his room to suit and had a bath.
'Have you tried the jacuzzi?' he says ...'it flung water all over me' ......
'I think you are meant to wait til it's filled up ..not while it's filling' I say....
Right ! lets get out there !
So we hit the Signature's famous 'moving walkways' and plunge headlong ....into the jaws of ........
.........................the MGM .....

Let me just say here that from the off, my constant refrain was:
'well, on the Trip Advisor forum they say .....'
(While E's was....'can we go to Hooters' ....)
Looking back, we must have both looked like glassy eyed zombies cruising along on the walkways ...it was either very late afternoon or early evening and the lag was starting to kick in .
As the MGM swallowed us up I figured The Strip might be abit too much sensory overload for the first evening ...especially as E was setting foot on US soil for the first time in quarter of a century....

Into the MGM - which hits you right between the eyes ..and ofcourse it's Saturday night so it's alive as alive can be.

And we are hungry. And everywhere is full with queues waiting.
Through the casino we go ......scanning the various eateries....'keep following the carpet 'says E - 'it's got path tracks on it'.

Come to the Players Club.....after all the advice on TA I insist we sign up. E is not one for handing out his details lightly but is quite taken with the free gold- metal MGM keyring ...so he does. Lovely - we've got presents already!

I am champing at the bit to throw my money into the nearest slot and The Wheel of Fortune is calling to me...but I exercise restraint as I have no idea what the hell I am doing. The lag is giving me a problem with reality.

Wander around abit ...look at the lions...which in our state seemed even more surreal than they usually do ...and retrace our steps on our food hunt.

The only place that seemed to be not full to the brim was a rather posh chinese, 'The Pearl', so in we went. As our brains were slowly turning to fudge we chose the $48 set menu each so we didn't have to think too hard. The food was great but we could have been eating MGM lion for all I know, as we were now feeling quite gaga... ....

and so back to The Signature ...and time to call it day . It's only about 10pm... but for us its the next day in the UK and our conversation is becoming nonsensical and slightly hysteria tinged.. One thing's for sure ...it feels good to be here!
SUNDAY ( our first full day )
WAKEY WAKEY !

Wide awake at 04.30 am . Yup...the lag . Debate with myself whether to try and get back to sleep. Impossible. Too awake . too excited. Lie in my big comfortable bed and have a think about the day ahead. I am tour guide - at least for a day or two until E has got his bearings.
Around 5.15 ish I hear sounds coming through the walls. E is up and pottering about. Give him til 5.30 then bang on his door.
'C'mon, c'mon! lets go eat breakfast !'
'It's 5.30 in the morning' says E . 'Nowhere will be open'. 'Whatttttt?' I say. This is Vegas! Nowhere will be closed!

BREAKFAST
Decide that it has to be the MGM buffet -it's convenient and I am in the mood for an 'all you can eat' start to the day.

Set off at 6.15ish -retracing our route from the night before and guess what...get side tracked by the slots. E, ever the considered the gambler - watches with interest as I swiftly demonstrate the art of how to lose $20. I don't even remember what I was playing ..but I do remember thinking I've never played slots at 06.30 in the morning before!
get to the buffet at 07.00 ..nice and early so no queue .

Hurrah!

The first thing that strikes us is the enormity of the choice . There seem to be counters everywhere with so much to pick from it's hard to know where to start. I go mad and want to eat all the things I don't normally get to eat at home. Waffles, pancakes ... then onto the main courses! E, meanwhile, is ofcourse eating fruit.

Our waitress is a delight. Now, I know that waiting staff are earning their tips but there is nothing quite like fantastic American customer service. It strikes us particularly, as we come from a country not known for it. We really could take a leaf out of your book in this area.

Thanks to Trip Advisor, I have already briefed E on the importance of tipping well and we resolve to start as we mean to go on. Particularly at breakfasts, as we both drink gallons of tea - so are abit needy on the teabag front ! ( cliche but it's true!)

Over breakfast I announce the plan for the day. As E is a 'trainspotter' there is only one thing it can start with. The monorail!
So......The Monorail....
Lets see now ...
1 day pass ...........$9 dollars
3 day pass ...........$40
um.......................
That'll be the 1 day pass then.
E is quietly excited .(He's always quiet about his excitement ....but I can tell. Something about the way he steps on the fish in the glass panels in the platform)
We ride to the end of the line. Lots of back views as we ride along listening to the fabulously showbizzy commentary. I love the gags ...but I have yet to hear them over and over.... and ...over...
E hasn't seen The Strip yet and already he's feeling Vegasy.

Arrive at The Sahara and I insist on signing up for the players card and the free dollars. ( I think it was 10) E cruises the casino looking purposeful. He's a dice and blackjack man - I just wanna play those slots. .......
There is something of 'Old Vegas'; about The Sahara ...what with the slightly moody lighting and the photos of The Beatles ( all looking about 22) - proudly proclaimng the fab Four stayed there in 1965 .....I wouldn't have been surprised if Dean Martin had walked through the door.
Anyway, I 'give' my free dollars back to the casino, E has a bit of a go on the dice, makes a couple of bucks or so and we decide to move on.
Next Stop ........THE WYNN!
The WYNN.
Well let me say straight off - I've always had this mad desire to stay at The Bellagio . If you 've read this far you will know that I couldn't get E to even entertain the idea. Not even when I showed him the videos of the Fountains on TA and You Tube. So his reaction to The Wynn was somewhat surprising.

So we get the Shuttle bus from the monorail station up to The Wynn....the bus cruises past the lush foliage and we can smell the opulence at 10 paces. I confess in my shorts and T shirt I felt a little underdressed......

We sniff the air ...it smells like ....luxury. We don't walk around the casino - we sashay. I head for the Red Card desk - no queue! and we sign up. Thank you Mr Wynn for the 10 dollars ..but better still ...this card doesn't expire - big plus when you are an overseas visitor not likely to come here as often as US visitors.

E goes off to check out the tables and I find The Wheel of Fortune. Sit down at one ...second spin I hit the bonus Wheel spin. $30 . Well it's a start ! cash out and move to another one. Within 3 or 4 spins I hit another Wheel. $40 ...cash out and silently thank Mr Wynn again. E has had a bit of luck on the tables too so we are both happy. Ok it's not alot ...but it feels good!
'This is where we'll stay next time' says E. My turn now to be gobsmacked. This from a man who wanted to consider the Travelodge ! But that's Vegas...it's gonna seduce you one way or another......
After a good wander around soaking up the rich and exquisite atmosphere ( and it does feel like that !) we decide to hit The Strip ...it's about time E saw it and start to walk down .
Can I get him to go to The Fashion Mall to look at the shops ? can I heck! No matter ..its a sunny day ...the first of 6 for us and LV is working it's charm......
E and The STRIP....
It's still day 1 and we are heading down The Strip from The Wynn at a brisk pace.
I know there's so much to see, that just a stroll around one casino complex can take up half a day. So a brisk trot it has to be.
My plan is to give E an American taste of Europe ...'so where are we going ?' he says ....'I think we'll go to Venice , I say'. E looks quizzical. I do not elaborate.
We cross over the Boulevard as The Venetian comes into view, sparkling in the sun like a glorious wedding cake. The Rialto Bridge, the canal ... E looks even more quizzical.

We stop to watch the gondolas gently gliding past in the sunshine...the strains of an Italian aria waft through the air. 'Are the gondoliers really singing ?' he says ...'absolutley ! ' I reply . 'They're very good'... 'You aint seen nothing yet' I say.

Forge our way into The Venetian through the crowds and follow the canal to St Mark's Square, me eyeing up the oplulent shops as we go ( I am determined to get E to come shopping at some stage )
St Mark's Square is busy busy but we navigate our way into The Square and watch the performers in their harlequin and italianate costumes.

I look at E who's got the same look on his face that I had when I first came here 2 years ago. To come all this way from Europe and have a perfect taste of Venice seems almost ridiculous ....it makes me laugh with delight.......
Now hands up who thought the Venetian sky was real? (I certainly did the first time I saw it.)
E is impressed... but not fooled.
'Hooters' ? says E . 'Not yet' I reply.

Let me explain. The notion of Hooters amuses us greatly.
For us, it would be like calling somewhere 'Knockers' or 'Bristols' ...( That's cockney rhyming slang for those not familiar - I can elaborate if you wish!)
E is determined to see if Hooters delivers what it appears to promise.
As he is obviously in the mood for some Vegas titillation I figure it has to be The Sirens at TI ...followed by the mad dash to The Volcano and on to The Fountains . Time it right and you can so all three without too much hanging about.

So early evening we set off for Treasure Island. Push our way into the assembled throng. The Sirens do not disappoint. Last time I saw them in winter they were covered in little shorty fleeces and looked frozen. This time there is enough on show to please any red blooded male.
The music throbs, the ships do battle, the pyrotechnics explode . The Sirens gyrate for all they are worth.
2 little old ladies in front of me tut. 'It used to be such a lovely show ....but now it's just s_x'.
Mad dash down though the crowds to the Mirage. The Volcano rumbles and splutters, and spurts fire and brimstone into the sky.
E is a little underwhelmed....
It's always wise to save the best for last.

And so to The Fountains.

My favourite thing in the whole of Vegas. I am confident E will be impressed this time. Who can fail to be swept away by their graceful elegance. I am just praying we are not treated to Celine Dion. I've had enough of that Titanic song to last a lifetime.....
Relief. It's 'Time to Say Goodbye' ...The fountains dance and sway and reach for the sky to Sarah Brightman and Andrea Bocelli's soaring notes . It's breathtaking, it's magical, and I am happy. This time E does look impressed.
'Now THAT'S why I wanted us to stay at The Bellagio' I say....
The rest of the day is lost in my memory ....the lag was hovering at the edge of our sensibilities- we have, after all, been awake since 04.30......and we still haven't gambled properly yet! !...
Coming soon :
In which E thinks the Pussycat Dolls at Caesar's are animatronics, and much language confusion over salad dressing at Ellis Island...
DAY 2 - in which E causes consternation at Ellis Island over salad.

Fuelled up again on the MGM buffet ... with the thought of some more heavy walking ahead we just wanted to 'eat and go'. Another great waitress who kept the tea coming . We are visibly basking in being treated so well ...believe me, we are not used to it at home!
E loads up on fruit -I pig out on everything else and we're off.

For 2 Europeans...having 'done' Venice, next stop has to be Paris.
In we go and cruise around...Paris is gorgeous with a warm inviting french ambience and we like it better than the real thing. Find Mon Ami Gabi ...of which I have read so much on Trip Advisor and suggest we might go there to eat one night.
E goes to suss out the tables and I spot the floor show.

The girls are looking foxy with their Parisien bobbed hair, skin tight black basques , stockings and lace up boots....
...E misses them by a moment and is more than a little disappointed!
This day was another big sight seeing day and we walked and walked... up down, in and out ..it's all a colourful haze. E is beginning to get his bearings so object achieved.


EVENING ..and it's SHOW TIME ! but first ...ELLIS ISLAND.
I had read so much on Trip Advisor about Ellis Island and 'The Steak Special' that I was determined to go there.
Set back from the Strip and seemingly fairly isolated - we can see it glowing beckoningly in the dark .
It felt like we were walking into 'Cheers' . Signed up for a table and grabbed 2 stools at the bar. 'Ted Danson is going to come out and serve us in a minute' said E. Ordered a couple of beers, and affected a casually relaxed air. E plays the bar poker machine in front of him and wins a few bucks.
We love it! It feels like proper America to us ...or at least the America we have watched all our lives on tv. The sport on the tv with the hyper excited commentators, the ding ding ding of the machines , the hustle bustle of a popular bar....
Soon our table is called. Interesting mix of customers - we realise it's a place for 'locals' and we like it even more.
It has to be Steak ..a simple choice ...but the choice of salad dressing is not so simple. I am checking out the menu while E listens politely to the long list of choices.
'.......thousand Island, barbeque..ranch '... says the waitress.
'Yes please' says E, stopping her in mid flow .....'french'....
'Sorry sir'?
'french' ....says E.. .....the waitress regards him slowly...
'Sorry sir ...we have' ...and starts going through the list again ..........'ranch'....'
'Yes, french' says E ......
I look up from my menu as I become aware that there's a salad dressing issue going on .
Politely I ask for the choices to be repeated and the waitress patiently goes through the list again.......'ranch'......'french' ? says E looking at me confused.....
AH! ...RANCH ! I say ......'Ah'....says E as comprehension dawns...
and chooses something else.....
Never has a vowel sound caused such confusion. 'C'mon now 'I say to E ..'you really must try and speak the language'.....
Loved Ellis island...even found a 1c Wheel of Fortune which took my money but I didn't care . We both loved it.
Now.... onto the SHOW!
Very excited about this - I had suggested LOVE and we had prebooked tickets on the net. So off to The Mirage for the late show.
I'd taken all the Trip Advisor advice and got two cheaper seats up high at the back .There is so much to see on stage and in the air that this was definitely the best view.
What can I say that hasn't been said already? It was just fabulous. The speakers in the backs of the seats make you feel like you are drowning in the music and the sounds of the Fab Four resonated a million memories while the spectacle just blew us away. .....You don't have to be a Beatles fan, but if you are, it's a double delight.
Threw some money around afterwards in the casino and walked all the way home in the small hours of the morning to the calm haven of The Signature. All in all ...another great Vegas day! ( Is there any other kind?)
TUESDAY - aiming for the heights of the Stratosphere... plunging the depths of Atlantis ..all in one day....

Decide to head up to The Stratosphere today and see the view - this means another trip on the monorail which I know will please E.
After managing to cause confusion in the Signature coffee shop trying to order tea, and E had had his required intake of fruit, we set off.....
Ride the monorail ...we've heard all the commentary jokes by now (and no, that isn't 'a klingon sitting next to me' ...it's E ) and jump off at the end of the line. Find our way past The Sahara and onto The North Strip.
It's a fiercely hot day and the Stratosphere looms like a beacon in a dusty wasteland. I don't know if I am hallucinating in the heat but The Strat seems like a real old Vegas movie hotel. Or maybe a CSI set.
First plan is to see if we can get to the top while avoiding the queue.

I've read on TA that the trick is to go up to the restaurant and just have a drink. Quickly discover I've totally mistimed things and they only let you do this early evening, as dusk falls.
So we hit the casino instead.

Amuse ourselves playing electronic roulette and win a few dollars. We've still not seriously gambled yet but are slowly building up to it ...
The Strat is a strange one as it seems to have a personality all of it's own ..E was quite taken with it ...(and even more so since he read the tale of the vanishing school girl outfit on TA.)

Memory fails how we passed the rest of the day ..it's all a kaleidescope of sounds and colours in my head... but eventually we head back to The Signature to freshen up for the evening.
Now I am hell bent on getting E into the vicinity of some shops.... and... ...I have a cunning plan!
'I have another surprise for you' I say casually ....'oh god', says E ...
'I think it's time for alittle abit of Ancient Rome'. ...

Our show treat for tonight is Elton John's Red Piano so it seems to me that if we head for Caesar's, I can then lure E into the Forum Shops by taking him to see the Atlantis animatronics.
He's impressed with the grand snaking escalator so it's a good start. Follow the signs ..me trying to get him interested in a little retail therapy as we go...but.......no chance. He just doesn't have the shopping gene.
Oh well.

As for the animatronics... I had a memory of them being pretty impressive ...but somehow they were a little less sound and fury then I recalled.
No matter ...a drink and a ringside seat at the bar and 15 minutes of flashing and banging gave us a distraction from our Vegas feet. ( We were both a bit footsore by this stage). E regarded the spectacle. 'Very interesting ' he said. ....
Time to grab a bite and go see Elton!
Ok ...enough of Atlantis !
Coming up.......We have dinner with Norman Bates' Mother, and
Elton tinkles the ivories,

E is getting twitchy. He always likes to know when he is going to eat, and preferably what and where - whereas I tend to eat as I go along.

As this is the Land of the Burger - I decide that's what I fancy.
E agrees , just happy that some sort of sustenance has been decided on.

The Forum's Planet Hollywood fits the bill so we dive in. Now, neither of us can remember when we last went into a PH so we look abit wary as the manager scoops us up. Immediatley, we are hit by flashing lights , thumping music and movie memorabilia.
The movie connection just hasn't registered,so I was a little unnerved to see sitting nearby and leering at us, a rotting corpse of someones's granny.
'Ughhhh...what's that.!'
'I think it's Norman Bates' mother' says E, sardonically
Closer inspection ...and it is !
I thought he was joking.
Anyway, despite Planet Hollywood's sensory overload, the burgers were great ...so were the cocktails ..and off we go.

CAESAR'S ! Plunging into the throng, I'd forgotten how vast Caesar's is. It all feels very grand and I can sense a sashay walk coming on. It's evening and everyone seems dressed to the nines, the chandeliers twinkle and there is an air of warm, glowing
sophistication about the place.
Pick up the tickets.
'Just to warn you guys' says the box office clerk ...'this show has adult content' ....
We are rather amused by this.
Neither of us are easily shocked, but the notion that the man who has virtually achieved Queen Mother status in the UK may be upping the stakes abit we are curious to see!
I've never seen Elton live but he is something of a National Treasure these days and I feel I've grown up with him.
E is of the opinion that you have to 'see these people before they die'..............................hang on !...he's not that old !
Find our seats in the upper circle. It's Elton's First Night back so it's packed. Two Londoners sit next to me ...my ear is now
so tuned to the colourful shades of the American accent that it's a shock to hear broad cockney so far from home.
We swap notes on where we've been and what we've seen...
The lights dim...and a big jangling note blasts out as an enormous suspended 'E' flashes like lightening....
.. a beat ,another note and the 'L' crackles with electricity ..another note and the 'T' ...it's the opening to Benny and The Jets and we all roar with appreciation as the man himself bounds onto the stage.
A little older, a littlle less lithe, but the same impish grin, blinking owl-like at us through colourful spex.
The Red Piano is waiting in it's spotlight ...the Elton letters are flahing megawatts and the backing band is belting it out . It's a great opener!
...and it's a real crowd pleaser of a show ...all the hits and one or two new songs, and lots to look at ...It's very tailored to Vegas with big flashy electric fx and huge inflatables bouncing around.
A massive screen over looks the stage for the films that accompany each song. Some are surreal, some enchanting and some quite near the edge. All are mesmerising. It's the films that come with the warning. So were we shocked?

No ....and yes.
The films are very much a psychedelic stream of consciousness .....sometimes drug hazed,with a whiff of danger and a vein of eroticism running through. All quite spell binding.
So what shocked us ?
Well
Given the Elton we all know and love ...they were all surprisingly ....
heterosexual....
Elton does nearly 2 hours ..when he's not thumping the piano at full stretch he 's a very funny raconteur. He loves Vegas and adores America, that much is clear.
One interesting thing happened while we were there
. About 15 minutes into the show a young couple were shown to their seats in the middle of our row. A minor irritation you may think...but wait...there's more.
Not only is it annoying when you have to stand and shift about when a show has already started ......but these 2 were brandishing open bottles and very obviously in party mood, talking and laughing loudly as they arrived. ( ie ...'drunk' )
And they carried on in this manner ...whooping and shouting 'we love you Elton ' at random moments.
..Now 's that's ok......but not during the quiet bits !
The wife of the London guy sitting next to me stoically bore the brunt of it, while he whispered to me that he was going to slap them if they didn't quieten down. He didn't. But I wish he had.
E will tell you that I have no qualms about getting stuck into situations and if they had been next to me I would have given them an ear bashing. Eventually with alot of people tutting around them they did settle down. But it took awhile.
I couldn't believe that Caesar's would show someone to their seats
after a show had started , when they were very obviously drunk ...and carrying alcohol. So I tackled a couple of secuity guards about it afterwards. They said it should have never have happened .
I am guessing a tip was exchanged somewhere ....?
Anyway, it didn't ruin the show .. I just think our 2 party animals had no idea how to behave and probably thought they were watching television!
All in all we were pleased to see Elton ...there's no denying
he's a great showman ..whether you are a fan or not !
and so...on to the casino ! and a 'close encounter' ........!
Caesar's Casino : In which E has a problem with reality and I get lucky ..but not in the way I expected.

So I've had a minor rant at Caesar's security about the drunks at Elton's show ...and the night is still young. A little gambling is in order......
E goes off as usual to do his circuit of the tables and I sit down at a random slot. I am itching to get a fix . Can't remember what I was playing but pretty quickly I am lost in the zone as the machine weaves it's magic. I am completely mesmerised when I become dimly aware of a voice in my ear.
'You look like you are concentrating pretty hard ...what 's the attraction?'
I look up as a ruggedly attractive guy around my age, dressed all in black, slides in to the chair next to me. I think he's being polite and answer that it's all just for fun ...and he latches onto my accent.

I also latch onto his. I have a thing about voices. To my ears he has a fabulous deep drawl and he tells me he's from Atlanta. . He says he's a black jack player waiting til after midnight for the right sort of 'action'. ....yes well...( ahem!) ....he looks expensive and I reckon he's a high roller.....
He then asks if I am in town on my own .......
.......................and then it dawns on me I'm being chatted up.
Now I know 'what happens in Vegas etc ' ...but I have to report, dear reader, that despite visions of being holed up in a penthouse suite sipping champagne ... my sensible streak kicked in and I suddenly claim E as my 'other half'. But where IS E when I need him?

The Man from Atlanta has read my mind ...
'Where is he' says the M from A ... ..'I wanna get a look at him'
Oh god. 'Come on' he says, 'come and point him out' . I wave in a vague direction thinking E is going to love me for this.
But then The M from A realises I am lost cause and wanders off.
E appears from nowhere and I tell him the story.
'No one 's tried to pick me up ' says E, slightly peeved. 'And.. I've lost money ....'
'Well , the week is young!' I say, ..
'Hey',says E ...'have you seen the animatronics here ? They're better than the Forum ones'......
'Show me' I say...and he leads the way round to the Pussycat Dolls tables. I realise he's enjoying the Pussycat Girls in their cages....
....'er.....you do realise they are real ? ' I say...........
That's what I love about Vegas. You can choose your own reality.....and it doesn't have to be real at all......
We stayed late that night at Caesar's ......me chasing the money the slots insisted on taking off me, while E was having a bad time on the tables.
He prides himself as a nifty diceman but ,so far, the Vegas dice just aren't rolling his way.
But, what the hell. What better place to throw your money away.... We tell ourselves we're not losing ...we're investing in the Vegas economy!
Walk all the way home to the Signature again - this time by East Harmon - just incase the MGM route sidetracks us into more rash gambling .......
E teases me all the way ...telling me that if I had 'played my cards right' with the M from A, I could be experiencing a whole new level of Vegas luxury...... .....
'That was one gamble too far' I say...'I've watched too many CSI s' !

So...coming up next ....A new Vegas Day ..in which E rides the Deuce downtown and I ride high over the Canyon.....( and finally go shopping !)
A new Vegas Day dawns....

Now, when it comes to a straight choice between a bus and a helicopter - E will always choose to keep his feet as close to the ground as possible.
There was just no way I was going to get him up there.

I know this, particularly, from his reaction to one of the card snappers.
'Wanna woman ? ' hissed the snapper ...'No? wanna helicopter?' ..
'I don't think I fancy either of those rides' said E.

With time running out, today I am going to be selfish. I want to shop - and I want to see the Canyon.

The Signature reception can get me onto a sunset trip late that afternoon with Sundance Helicopters . I figure that the Signature won't recommend any firm that may kill their customers and sign up. $330 + tax for a couple of hours.... seems reasonable to me for what I hope will be a once in a lifetime experience....

In the meantime I am going shopping, while E sets off happily for the Deuce and a trip downtown. ( He's a big fan of public transport so we are both happy.)

Hit the Forum shops . What I want is good quality American merchandise that I know costs double at home - so first, I run amok in Gap. I have long suspected that Gap just switch the $ for a £ on the tags in the UK. So I stock up on some winter basics. After all, - it all seems like half price to me !

Prowl the Forum 'streets' and end up in my favourite skin care treasure trove ...Kiehl's ! ...Wonderful Kiehl's whose products are also double the price at home. Load up my basket and by the end I feel like the staff are my new best friends. ....or maybe they were just pleased that I bought everything they suggested!

Head back to The Signature, satisfied with my fix of retail therapy.

E is back and puts the kettle on. Actually he doesn't. As we have been unable to work out how to boil water in the coffee maker for tea - we have been using a saucepan.
So E puts the saucepan on and I ask him about downtown.

With a faraway, misty eyed look - he tells me. At last - here was the Vegas of his memories...or as near as dammit. He'd loved the Deuce, had a bit of a gamble, abit of luck and pronounced the tables more to his liking.
I had a vision of him strolling into town like Clint Eastwood. The Man with No Name - and a bus pass in his pocket...

By now it's time for my Big Canyon Adventure.
'If anything happens to me' I say to E ...'I want you to know you've been a great mate '...
....and with that, I run down to reception to wait for my pick up....... leaving E looking faintly worried.......
I must admit I am feeling abit drained after reliving my Canyon trip ....I was up half the night fuelled by tea, and vodka and orange juice writing it- and I could feel the helicopter blood rush in my veins again. The New Frontier was on the tv news - so Vegas felt very close in my head.

So ........coming up next ....E finally goes to Hooters ...
......and I get doubley lucky in New York New York ... !
" Luck be a lady tonight....."

The helicopter trip had left me feeling all churned up -emotionally high, but quite exhausted after all the excitement. All I wanted to do was eat and gamble 'close to home' .

E had some excitement of his own to report . He'd been practising his Spanish on the housekeeping maid -who was so taken aback she'd showered him with toiletries and teabags. He's such a charmer sometimes. In his own quiet way.

Anyway, he was up for whatever I decided - which hopefully
included a decent night's luck. We could do with some - it's been up and down all the way so far. We had both decided on our daily budget - but we were just chasing our losses or breaking even.

The MGM then? 'Fine' says E.

Grab a bite in the Studio cafe and hit the casino. Our usual pattern - E heads for the dice and blackjack - I go cruising the slots.

Now, one of my obsessions is the Wheel of Fortune.
I swear it shouts my name everytime I pass one .
But it 's only teasing.....
So far this trip it's been the Wheel of Misfortune. Everytime I've played it -and I've played it all over town - it's swallowed my money .
(Apart from at The Wynn ..)

It's the same story tonight - and I am playing max credits . But,
like a spoilt lover, the more money I give it - the more the Wheel
plays hard to get - and eventually I move on - playing random machines as I go.

Frog Prince ? sure I'll donate you some dollars...Coyote Moon ?..you want some too?..no worries ...here - have some of mine !

E comes and finds me - and starts to take an interest in my slot play. He's not been interested before - as far as he's concerned 'real gamblers play tables' ...but after his luck so far he's beginning to revise his view.
So much to my amazement he starts to play the slots ...and ...
starts to win. Not alot mind you ..but enough to make him look at slots with a whole new eye. Ofcourse I tease him mercilessly.

After awhile and a few drinks we take a stroll over the bridge to NYNY to get some air..have a walk around - abit of a play - and then I am ready to call it a night . It's been a big day for me ..In my head I am still high over The Canyon....and my bed is calling to me ...
'Ok' says E, as we stroll back over the bridge ...
'I think I'll go to Hooters.....'
'Storm in a bra cup.................'
E would like it known that he's not really a 'hooters' man ...

Our fascination lay in the 'upfront' boldness of the name. In an era of political correctness, it amused the hell out of both of us.

If Hooters was unashamed in advertising its wares....E was going to be unashamed in wanting to check out the merchandise.
It wasn't quite my style of 'shopping' - so I left him to it.
But would Hooters deliver what it appeared to promise? E was a man with a mission.

I, meanwhile, headed home to the Sig – and… got sidetracked again by the MGM slots.
About half an hour later I felt a tap on my shoulder. E.

He didn’t look like a man who’d had an eyeful. In fact he looked vaguely disappointed. ‘So’ …I said…’did you see some hooters?’
A long drawn out ‘ no.... ….’
‘Oh’. I said (trying not to laugh)

He’d checked out the merchandise - but the merchandise was under wraps.
Yes, the girls were plentiful and the shorts were short – but that wasn’t the point. He’d cruised the casino and felt rather cheated. So he kept his money in his wallet and headed home. Any notion of trading mild for wild, vanished in the Vegas night.

‘It was like Excalibur - with tight T shirts’ he said.......

Coming up... Going out in style on our last full day … dinner with Mon Ami E, the Fountains have a freak out ...and there’s a surprise in store at the Big Apple...
'To be E ...or not to be ...that is the question....'

So E came over tonight .
He always comes up to my neck of the woods- it means he can indulge his liking of public transport.
We caught up on the Trip Advisor forum thread and checked out a few others.
E wanted me to post :
" Stratosphere or Bellagio ???" ...or ....."Hooters v Wynn??? "
'They'll think I've gone mad' I said...
'Ah' ..he said - 'but the responses will be interesting' ....

Then we went out to eat and discuss whether he was going to 'make an appearance'.

Now, let me assure you that my propelling of him into cyberspace was not undertaken lightly!

E is a man who paid cash for for everything in Vegas - including his hotel bill. He does have a credit card. He just doesn't like the way it reveals his details....
He even switches off the cookies on his computer.
'Do you think Bill Gates is going to come round and tell you he knows what you've been looking at ?' ....
'No' he replies ..'.but I still don't want him knowing '..
So he thinks, for now, the 'Greta Garbo' approach is best.. But he does want me to tell you that he says 'hello'.
'How about I post a pic at the end of the thread' I said.....'I'll think about it' he replied...
'Everyone's going to think you're my 'imaginary friend'.....

Our final 24hrs coming up...and a quick postscript to the Hooters Story from E . He reminded me that the night he went, some bulbs had blown in its lit up name ... .
It spelt ..... HO***RS . 'But it still didn't deliver ' said E....
Yes, it's true. E is a little paranoid. About everything.

That's just how he is.

It does mean I went to Vegas with a man who approaches life like an MI5 spy. Which was interesting.

So ...to our final day ....
" (It was only) ... 24 hours from Checkout ..."

In Vegas, time doesn't exist - and if you look for it, you're not really there. All I knew was ... the days had flown by too quickly. So on the last day we hit the ground running.

The desert climate had played havoc with our skin - and by now we'd all but chewed our lips off. I'd also developed a strange rash under one arm and I had no idea what it was. Did I say at the start I was a rash gambler? Now I really was.

I wanted to go back to Kiehl's and consult my new best friends, the Kiehl's girls. E showed a surprising interest - so, after a late room service breakfast , I struck while the iron was hot and frogmarched him back to the Forum shops.
Ofcourse they made a fuss of him while he loitered around the men's shelves looking butch, and miracle of miracles, he actually did some shopping. A few 'manly' lotions to primp with, while the girls smothered my strange skin condition with a soothing balm.

I can't remember quite how the day went ..but I know we got to the Fountains in time for their first display...just as the water jets popped out of the water in readiness.

Then they popped back in again .Then they popped back out..

The crowd looked on in anticipation. 4 rather limp jets half heartedly spurted upwards and hung in the air, spitting pathetically.

'Is that it ?' said an elderly gentlemen next to me. 'Gee - I've heard so much about these fountains....'
'I think they maybe having a bit of a problem'...I said. Which was possibly the understatement of the day.

The Fountains coughed and spluttered abit more - the crowd looked on with interest. The jets were up and down like a yo yo - breaking the surface of the water like some strange Loch Ness Monster.
At last...the rousing notes of the Stars & Stripes ...and the Fountains got their act together. As fabulous as ever. But for a moment there...it was touch and go...

It had been E's birthday just before we came away and I'd promised him a special Vegas birthday treat. 'Name your restaurant' I said.
Those Fountains were intriguing us now so E suggested Mon Ami Gabi for the Fountain view. I knew it was a good choice as it had been widely praised on Trip Advisor, so we got there early evening and put our names down for an outside table.. ...

Despite the dark suited headset -wearing management staff running the place like we'd accidentally walked into the Pentagon, we liked the ambience. And we struck lucky with an outside table .... one right at the end, facing straight across at the Fountains.

The evening enveloped us, the food was gorgeous, the service excellent ( by now we'd got used to being treated wonderfully in restaurants, but it was still a pleasure) - and it just had to be .......champagne .

The Fountains meanwhile were in freefall.

Missing their cue on the clock quarter hours - they made up for it by cramming in 2 songs for the price of one as they galloped towards the next timed showing.

So we got double Fountains for our money.

E was delighted when Elvis boomed across the Boulevard ....
Viva las Vegas !- perfect for a birthday celebration and our last night. We raised a toast to Sin City and vowed to come back soon....
As for The Random Fountains of Bellagio ....they rose... and rose... and rose again .....to the occasion.....

Coming up next ...NYNY ..and we go out on a winning streak.....at last!