Friday 4 April 2008

Vegas with E ( originally a 'trip report' written for Trip Advisor's Vegas Forum)

To see the original thread with all the fun Vegas forum responses and replies.....click here

THE TRIP: Las Vegas Oct 13th - 19th 2007 * Hotel :The Signature @ MGM
THE TRAVELLERS :

Me : ( 50 and abit - still think I am 30 ) rash gambler, extrovert, travel junkie. Last time in the States : New York in June.

E : ( 50 and a bit more) - one of my oldest and closest friends -no, not gay or an ex - but that rare thing, a straight platonic male friend , considered gambler, introvert, not a big traveller ( prefers sitting at home with a cup of tea) . Last time in the States : 25 years ago - Las Vegas.
We are about as alike as chalk and cheese ...


BACKGROUND:
I had been to Vegas for the first time on a whim in 2005 with another friend, but as E needs to consider everything very carefully, 6 weeks notice had not been enough for him..


As he has regretted it ever since and I had loved it ,earlier this year we planned our trip.


This was not as easy as it sounds as a) I had to persuade him that his guide books from 1982 were a little out of date and b) we were not going to do it 'on the cheap' .
'We could always go seperately' he said as I enthused about the Bellagio ....'and then meet up on the Strip'.


He hasn't seen The Strip for a quarter of a century.


Anyway, after me threatening to not go with him at all, we settle on The Signature as I am curious to see if it lives up to Trip Advisor's no.1 spot.


FLIGHT : E is a nervy air traveller. 'Well this is alright' he said as we settled into our Virgin economy seats, 'it's much better than before ..
' Remind me , when was before? I reply ...' 25 years ago on Laker ...'
We fill in our customs & immigration forms ...I take a sneaky peak over his shoulder to see him writing at length.
Q: Are you bringing in any food in your case ...
A : 2 apples,1 banana, 1 orange, 2 packets of oatcakes.....
As I didn't want to spend 4 hours at McCarran while E explained why he had fruit in his case I had to persuade him to bin it on arrival. ...
.......and who was the person who was stopped? Me


ARRIVAL : Much to my surprise I still had the green 'visa waiver form' clipped in my passport from my trip to NY in June.

The immigration officer was not impressed. "According to this ma'am, you haven't left the States since June". 'Well sir', I say ( mindful that US Immigration is a force to be reckoned with ) I have just come in on an international flight from the UK so I must have done'.

Further interogation -during which I blame Richard Branson ..(ok, his airline ... Virgin check in should have taken it off me in NY ) and then get abit girlie and pathetic as visions of being shoved on the next flight home flash before my eyes.
'Well ma'am - we should by all rights interrogate you ( gulp!) but on this occasion I'll let you through'. ( Phew! ) Armed with a form to fill in and a warning, he lets me through. God knows what's now on my computer file ....
and so ...To The SIGNATURE!


Grab a taxi and off we go. It is a gloriously hot afternoon and Vegas looks like a wonderfully inviting candy coloured play ground, sparkling in the sun. E looks abit gobsmacked.
Short trip to The Signature - we know we are in Tower 2 as I had emailed ahead to enquire. I had also cheekily asked for Strip facing rooms and balconies.

Check in and get our room keys, and E asks where the lifts are. Reception politely say pardon ? E repeats the question.....and my internal translator kicks in. I stage whisper behind E 'it's elevator' ....having sorted that one out, I remind him that we are in America now..so when in Vegas! .....(what was that quote about 2 nations divided by a common language ?....)


THE ROOMS :
Head up in the lift ( sorry elevator) to the 26th Floor. Discover we have been given 2 'junior suites' side by side with balconies ...and facing The Strip! ...Rush to the balcony ...we can see The Eiffel Tower and a lot of building work..but hey ...it's Vegas ! the suites are enormous and I am happy ....it's always a good start when you like your hotel ...AND your room.
Settling in....

So we've checked in to our rooms.
First thing I do is put the big plasma tv on . Flip channels and find Donald Trump on Larry King Live....now I know I really am in America!
Ring up E who answers the phone with a 'who knows I'm here' tone of voice .......
'It's Donald Trump live on the telly !' I yell.
Now he knows I really am jetlag crazy.

I fling my stuff randomly about, have a quick shower and get ready to hit The Strip. Bang on E's door ...he's carefully arranged his room to suit and had a bath.
'Have you tried the jacuzzi?' he says ...'it flung water all over me' ......
'I think you are meant to wait til it's filled up ..not while it's filling' I say....
Right ! lets get out there !
So we hit the Signature's famous 'moving walkways' and plunge headlong ....into the jaws of ........
.........................the MGM .....

Let me just say here that from the off, my constant refrain was:
'well, on the Trip Advisor forum they say .....'
(While E's was....'can we go to Hooters' ....)
Looking back, we must have both looked like glassy eyed zombies cruising along on the walkways ...it was either very late afternoon or early evening and the lag was starting to kick in .
As the MGM swallowed us up I figured The Strip might be abit too much sensory overload for the first evening ...especially as E was setting foot on US soil for the first time in quarter of a century....

Into the MGM - which hits you right between the eyes ..and ofcourse it's Saturday night so it's alive as alive can be.

And we are hungry. And everywhere is full with queues waiting.
Through the casino we go ......scanning the various eateries....'keep following the carpet 'says E - 'it's got path tracks on it'.

Come to the Players Club.....after all the advice on TA I insist we sign up. E is not one for handing out his details lightly but is quite taken with the free gold- metal MGM keyring ...so he does. Lovely - we've got presents already!

I am champing at the bit to throw my money into the nearest slot and The Wheel of Fortune is calling to me...but I exercise restraint as I have no idea what the hell I am doing. The lag is giving me a problem with reality.

Wander around abit ...look at the lions...which in our state seemed even more surreal than they usually do ...and retrace our steps on our food hunt.

The only place that seemed to be not full to the brim was a rather posh chinese, 'The Pearl', so in we went. As our brains were slowly turning to fudge we chose the $48 set menu each so we didn't have to think too hard. The food was great but we could have been eating MGM lion for all I know, as we were now feeling quite gaga... ....

and so back to The Signature ...and time to call it day . It's only about 10pm... but for us its the next day in the UK and our conversation is becoming nonsensical and slightly hysteria tinged.. One thing's for sure ...it feels good to be here!
SUNDAY ( our first full day )
WAKEY WAKEY !

Wide awake at 04.30 am . Yup...the lag . Debate with myself whether to try and get back to sleep. Impossible. Too awake . too excited. Lie in my big comfortable bed and have a think about the day ahead. I am tour guide - at least for a day or two until E has got his bearings.
Around 5.15 ish I hear sounds coming through the walls. E is up and pottering about. Give him til 5.30 then bang on his door.
'C'mon, c'mon! lets go eat breakfast !'
'It's 5.30 in the morning' says E . 'Nowhere will be open'. 'Whatttttt?' I say. This is Vegas! Nowhere will be closed!

BREAKFAST
Decide that it has to be the MGM buffet -it's convenient and I am in the mood for an 'all you can eat' start to the day.

Set off at 6.15ish -retracing our route from the night before and guess what...get side tracked by the slots. E, ever the considered the gambler - watches with interest as I swiftly demonstrate the art of how to lose $20. I don't even remember what I was playing ..but I do remember thinking I've never played slots at 06.30 in the morning before!
get to the buffet at 07.00 ..nice and early so no queue .

Hurrah!

The first thing that strikes us is the enormity of the choice . There seem to be counters everywhere with so much to pick from it's hard to know where to start. I go mad and want to eat all the things I don't normally get to eat at home. Waffles, pancakes ... then onto the main courses! E, meanwhile, is ofcourse eating fruit.

Our waitress is a delight. Now, I know that waiting staff are earning their tips but there is nothing quite like fantastic American customer service. It strikes us particularly, as we come from a country not known for it. We really could take a leaf out of your book in this area.

Thanks to Trip Advisor, I have already briefed E on the importance of tipping well and we resolve to start as we mean to go on. Particularly at breakfasts, as we both drink gallons of tea - so are abit needy on the teabag front ! ( cliche but it's true!)

Over breakfast I announce the plan for the day. As E is a 'trainspotter' there is only one thing it can start with. The monorail!
So......The Monorail....
Lets see now ...
1 day pass ...........$9 dollars
3 day pass ...........$40
um.......................
That'll be the 1 day pass then.
E is quietly excited .(He's always quiet about his excitement ....but I can tell. Something about the way he steps on the fish in the glass panels in the platform)
We ride to the end of the line. Lots of back views as we ride along listening to the fabulously showbizzy commentary. I love the gags ...but I have yet to hear them over and over.... and ...over...
E hasn't seen The Strip yet and already he's feeling Vegasy.

Arrive at The Sahara and I insist on signing up for the players card and the free dollars. ( I think it was 10) E cruises the casino looking purposeful. He's a dice and blackjack man - I just wanna play those slots. .......
There is something of 'Old Vegas'; about The Sahara ...what with the slightly moody lighting and the photos of The Beatles ( all looking about 22) - proudly proclaimng the fab Four stayed there in 1965 .....I wouldn't have been surprised if Dean Martin had walked through the door.
Anyway, I 'give' my free dollars back to the casino, E has a bit of a go on the dice, makes a couple of bucks or so and we decide to move on.
Next Stop ........THE WYNN!
The WYNN.
Well let me say straight off - I've always had this mad desire to stay at The Bellagio . If you 've read this far you will know that I couldn't get E to even entertain the idea. Not even when I showed him the videos of the Fountains on TA and You Tube. So his reaction to The Wynn was somewhat surprising.

So we get the Shuttle bus from the monorail station up to The Wynn....the bus cruises past the lush foliage and we can smell the opulence at 10 paces. I confess in my shorts and T shirt I felt a little underdressed......

We sniff the air ...it smells like ....luxury. We don't walk around the casino - we sashay. I head for the Red Card desk - no queue! and we sign up. Thank you Mr Wynn for the 10 dollars ..but better still ...this card doesn't expire - big plus when you are an overseas visitor not likely to come here as often as US visitors.

E goes off to check out the tables and I find The Wheel of Fortune. Sit down at one ...second spin I hit the bonus Wheel spin. $30 . Well it's a start ! cash out and move to another one. Within 3 or 4 spins I hit another Wheel. $40 ...cash out and silently thank Mr Wynn again. E has had a bit of luck on the tables too so we are both happy. Ok it's not alot ...but it feels good!
'This is where we'll stay next time' says E. My turn now to be gobsmacked. This from a man who wanted to consider the Travelodge ! But that's Vegas...it's gonna seduce you one way or another......
After a good wander around soaking up the rich and exquisite atmosphere ( and it does feel like that !) we decide to hit The Strip ...it's about time E saw it and start to walk down .
Can I get him to go to The Fashion Mall to look at the shops ? can I heck! No matter ..its a sunny day ...the first of 6 for us and LV is working it's charm......
E and The STRIP....
It's still day 1 and we are heading down The Strip from The Wynn at a brisk pace.
I know there's so much to see, that just a stroll around one casino complex can take up half a day. So a brisk trot it has to be.
My plan is to give E an American taste of Europe ...'so where are we going ?' he says ....'I think we'll go to Venice , I say'. E looks quizzical. I do not elaborate.
We cross over the Boulevard as The Venetian comes into view, sparkling in the sun like a glorious wedding cake. The Rialto Bridge, the canal ... E looks even more quizzical.

We stop to watch the gondolas gently gliding past in the sunshine...the strains of an Italian aria waft through the air. 'Are the gondoliers really singing ?' he says ...'absolutley ! ' I reply . 'They're very good'... 'You aint seen nothing yet' I say.

Forge our way into The Venetian through the crowds and follow the canal to St Mark's Square, me eyeing up the oplulent shops as we go ( I am determined to get E to come shopping at some stage )
St Mark's Square is busy busy but we navigate our way into The Square and watch the performers in their harlequin and italianate costumes.

I look at E who's got the same look on his face that I had when I first came here 2 years ago. To come all this way from Europe and have a perfect taste of Venice seems almost ridiculous ....it makes me laugh with delight.......
Now hands up who thought the Venetian sky was real? (I certainly did the first time I saw it.)
E is impressed... but not fooled.
'Hooters' ? says E . 'Not yet' I reply.

Let me explain. The notion of Hooters amuses us greatly.
For us, it would be like calling somewhere 'Knockers' or 'Bristols' ...( That's cockney rhyming slang for those not familiar - I can elaborate if you wish!)
E is determined to see if Hooters delivers what it appears to promise.
As he is obviously in the mood for some Vegas titillation I figure it has to be The Sirens at TI ...followed by the mad dash to The Volcano and on to The Fountains . Time it right and you can so all three without too much hanging about.

So early evening we set off for Treasure Island. Push our way into the assembled throng. The Sirens do not disappoint. Last time I saw them in winter they were covered in little shorty fleeces and looked frozen. This time there is enough on show to please any red blooded male.
The music throbs, the ships do battle, the pyrotechnics explode . The Sirens gyrate for all they are worth.
2 little old ladies in front of me tut. 'It used to be such a lovely show ....but now it's just s_x'.
Mad dash down though the crowds to the Mirage. The Volcano rumbles and splutters, and spurts fire and brimstone into the sky.
E is a little underwhelmed....
It's always wise to save the best for last.

And so to The Fountains.

My favourite thing in the whole of Vegas. I am confident E will be impressed this time. Who can fail to be swept away by their graceful elegance. I am just praying we are not treated to Celine Dion. I've had enough of that Titanic song to last a lifetime.....
Relief. It's 'Time to Say Goodbye' ...The fountains dance and sway and reach for the sky to Sarah Brightman and Andrea Bocelli's soaring notes . It's breathtaking, it's magical, and I am happy. This time E does look impressed.
'Now THAT'S why I wanted us to stay at The Bellagio' I say....
The rest of the day is lost in my memory ....the lag was hovering at the edge of our sensibilities- we have, after all, been awake since 04.30......and we still haven't gambled properly yet! !...
Coming soon :
In which E thinks the Pussycat Dolls at Caesar's are animatronics, and much language confusion over salad dressing at Ellis Island...
DAY 2 - in which E causes consternation at Ellis Island over salad.

Fuelled up again on the MGM buffet ... with the thought of some more heavy walking ahead we just wanted to 'eat and go'. Another great waitress who kept the tea coming . We are visibly basking in being treated so well ...believe me, we are not used to it at home!
E loads up on fruit -I pig out on everything else and we're off.

For 2 Europeans...having 'done' Venice, next stop has to be Paris.
In we go and cruise around...Paris is gorgeous with a warm inviting french ambience and we like it better than the real thing. Find Mon Ami Gabi ...of which I have read so much on Trip Advisor and suggest we might go there to eat one night.
E goes to suss out the tables and I spot the floor show.

The girls are looking foxy with their Parisien bobbed hair, skin tight black basques , stockings and lace up boots....
...E misses them by a moment and is more than a little disappointed!
This day was another big sight seeing day and we walked and walked... up down, in and out ..it's all a colourful haze. E is beginning to get his bearings so object achieved.


EVENING ..and it's SHOW TIME ! but first ...ELLIS ISLAND.
I had read so much on Trip Advisor about Ellis Island and 'The Steak Special' that I was determined to go there.
Set back from the Strip and seemingly fairly isolated - we can see it glowing beckoningly in the dark .
It felt like we were walking into 'Cheers' . Signed up for a table and grabbed 2 stools at the bar. 'Ted Danson is going to come out and serve us in a minute' said E. Ordered a couple of beers, and affected a casually relaxed air. E plays the bar poker machine in front of him and wins a few bucks.
We love it! It feels like proper America to us ...or at least the America we have watched all our lives on tv. The sport on the tv with the hyper excited commentators, the ding ding ding of the machines , the hustle bustle of a popular bar....
Soon our table is called. Interesting mix of customers - we realise it's a place for 'locals' and we like it even more.
It has to be Steak ..a simple choice ...but the choice of salad dressing is not so simple. I am checking out the menu while E listens politely to the long list of choices.
'.......thousand Island, barbeque..ranch '... says the waitress.
'Yes please' says E, stopping her in mid flow .....'french'....
'Sorry sir'?
'french' ....says E.. .....the waitress regards him slowly...
'Sorry sir ...we have' ...and starts going through the list again ..........'ranch'....'
'Yes, french' says E ......
I look up from my menu as I become aware that there's a salad dressing issue going on .
Politely I ask for the choices to be repeated and the waitress patiently goes through the list again.......'ranch'......'french' ? says E looking at me confused.....
AH! ...RANCH ! I say ......'Ah'....says E as comprehension dawns...
and chooses something else.....
Never has a vowel sound caused such confusion. 'C'mon now 'I say to E ..'you really must try and speak the language'.....
Loved Ellis island...even found a 1c Wheel of Fortune which took my money but I didn't care . We both loved it.
Now.... onto the SHOW!
Very excited about this - I had suggested LOVE and we had prebooked tickets on the net. So off to The Mirage for the late show.
I'd taken all the Trip Advisor advice and got two cheaper seats up high at the back .There is so much to see on stage and in the air that this was definitely the best view.
What can I say that hasn't been said already? It was just fabulous. The speakers in the backs of the seats make you feel like you are drowning in the music and the sounds of the Fab Four resonated a million memories while the spectacle just blew us away. .....You don't have to be a Beatles fan, but if you are, it's a double delight.
Threw some money around afterwards in the casino and walked all the way home in the small hours of the morning to the calm haven of The Signature. All in all ...another great Vegas day! ( Is there any other kind?)